Need photo of late model 24Ve's factory ballast switch panel...

[91Terminator]

no pics of you boat, but here is a 2009 22Ve the dash is a bit different like i said.

There is room for 3 switches above the switches on the right hand side, but i would try to put them by the stereo remote. There seems to be enough room looking at this picture to maybe put 4 switches right there in a row.

[IDBoating]

no pics of you boat, but here is a 2009 22Ve the dash is a bit different like i said.

At one time you did have photos of my 24Ve's dash on your website. If you still have the website materials, it may be in there. Just a thought. I suspect the 22Ve's dash is basically the same.

There is room for 3 switches above the switches on the right hand side

That has been my default location, if I have to cut the plastic myself. However, at the moment I'm pursuing the factory switch plate which raises the question of where the factory puts it. See below....

i would try to put them by the stereo remote. There seems to be enough room looking at this picture to maybe put 4 switches right there in a row.

Now that I see this, Tige's comments make more sense. I believe the factory ballast system puts its switch plate on the WHITE upholstery below the stereo remote. They said something about "in front of the throttle" but I had presumed this was meant to help me visualize where on the dashboard the switchplate went. Now I think it's actually on the SIDE wall, in the white fabric, literally "in front of the throttle".

Speaking of four switches... see the earlier exchange in this thread about that. Does the factory ballast have four switches? That implies two bow bags. I'd understand that on an RZ model but why on a Ve? The earlier response said it was necessary for the two drain pumps, but if they're always going to run together they could (and should, IMHO) be wired in parallel. Something's not clear here.

[chpthril]

Speaking of four switches... see the earlier exchange in this thread about that. Does the factory ballast have four switches? That implies two bow bags. I'd understand that on an RZ model but why on a Ve? The earlier response said it was necessary for the two drain pumps, but if they're always going to run together they could (and should, IMHO) be wired in parallel. Something's not clear here.

Tige has been using 4 ballast switches for quite a few years now, even on the boat with the single "U" shaped bow sac. They have 2 fill pumps and 2 drain pumps for the bow, regardless of the sac(s) up front.

For the Integrated bow sac, there is no need for 2 switches IMO, when aerator pumps are used. A typical Carling DPDT switch will easily handle 2 pumps, even the custom ones my competitor has made

For the Integrated bow sac, I do recommend 2 drain pumps for more efficient draining, but 1 fill pump is sufficient and 2 would up to the owner depending on how fast he wants the sac to fill.

[IDBoating]

Tige has been using 4 ballast switches for quite a few years now, even on the boat with the single "U" shaped bow sac. They have 2 fill pumps and 2 drain pumps for the bow, regardless of the sac(s) up front.

Does this mean you must use two switches to drain the single front sac? One switch would (eventually) fill the entire sac, but two must be used to drain it. That's a weird choice.

For the Integrated bow sac, there is no need for 2 switches IMO, when aerator pumps are used. A typical Carling DPDT switch will easily handle 2 pumps, even the custom ones my competitor has made. For the Integrated bow sac, I do recommend 2 drain pumps for more efficient draining, but 1 fill pump is sufficient and 2 would up to the owner depending on how fast he wants the sac to fill.

I completely agree. Dual impeller pumps might exceed the current rating of the switch, but aerator pumps are pretty light - 5 amps DC IIRC. Those Carling switches are probably rated for 12-15 ADC.

[chpthril]

Does this mean you must use two switches to drain the single front sac? One switch would (eventually) fill the entire sac, but two must be used to drain it. That's a weird choice.

It would depend on your setup. If it's the single Integrated bow sac, a single fill pump will fill it, just slower then 2 pumps............but there again, it would also depend on what pumps where used.

If it's 2 sacs like the current Pro Ballast setup, or the older models that used 2 separate hard tank in the bow, 2 fill and 2 drain pumps is a must.

I completely agree. Dual impeller pumps might exceed the current rating of the switch, but aerator pumps are pretty light - 5 amps DC IIRC. Those Carling switches are probably rated for 12-15 ADC.

The Carlings i use are 20A rated, so 2 aerators are not a problem, but for t impeller pumps, a simple relay would do the trick.

[91Terminator]

Ya there is no need for the 2 switches but the reason tige does that is because the ballast harness will be the same for every ballast option, so any boat that gets ballast has the same harness and the same panel which cuts production costs.

plus if you plan to do a lot of surfing i would go with 2 bow sacs so you can weight the entire side of the boat front and rear.

[IDBoating]

The Carlings i use are 20A rated

Is that its DC or AC rating? They're often different. Just wondering.

[IDBoating]

Ya there is no need for the 2 switches but the reason tige does that is because the ballast harness will be the same for every ballast option, so any boat that gets ballast has the same harness and the same panel which cuts production costs.

Totally agree on the economies of scale!

BTW, they could use the same harness for either bow setup, and just use (or not use) the appropriate harness wires as appropriate for whichever hull.

plus if you plan to do a lot of surfing i would go with 2 bow sacs so you can weight the entire side of the boat front and rear.

Hmm... based on ragboy's comments regarding the 24 footers, I'm uncertain whether more weight in the bow improves surfing. Boarding, yes, but maybe not surfing.

[chpthril]

Is that its DC or AC rating? They're often different. Just wondering.

12V DC 20A. Since we are discussing boats with 12V systems and 12V pumps, I wouldn't want to muddy the water by giving AC specs

[IDBoating]

12V DC 20A. Since we are discussing boats with 12V systems and 12V pumps, I wouldn't want to muddy the water by giving AC specs

Please accept my compliments for knowing, and paying attention to, the difference! I can't tell you how many times I've had to argue with people that they ARE different things, and that the AC and DC ratings are usually dissimilar.

BTW, I agree a relay is a simple solution to the overcurrent problem. I've never checked... is there a 12VDC relay that has a convenient mounting bracket for an application of this type? Most of my work is either with reed relays (PCB mounted, too small and fragile for boats) or semiconductor (bipolars, FET's, etc.). It would be nice to have access to a marine-rated relay that has a mounting bracket so it's easy to replace when the time comes (and it WILL come with any electromechanical device!).

Actually, now that I type this, doing it with an FET would be pretty easy. Some of today's power FET's have amazingly low channel resistance so the losses would be almost nonexistent, and you'd gain essentially infinite lifespan (particularly as compared to relays).

Brainstorming again, sorry.... {grin}

[chpthril]

Please accept my compliments for knowing, and paying attention to, the difference! I can't tell you how many times I've had to argue with people that they ARE different things, and that the AC and DC ratings are usually dissimilar.

BTW, I agree a relay is a simple solution to the overcurrent problem. I've never checked... is there a 12VDC relay that has a convenient mounting bracket for an application of this type? Most of my work is either with reed relays (PCB mounted, too small and fragile for boats) or semiconductor (bipolars, FET's, etc.). It would be nice to have access to a marine-rated relay that has a mounting bracket so it's easy to replace when the time comes (and it WILL come with any electromechanical device!).

Actually, now that I type this, doing it with an FET would be pretty easy. Some of today's power FET's have amazingly low channel resistance so the losses would be almost nonexistent, and you'd gain essentially infinite lifespan (particularly as compared to relays).

Brainstorming again, sorry.... {grin}

I use a Tyco SPDT 5 pin (old Bosch pin #'s) w/bracket. You can a plug with pigtails, but I usually just make my own harness. You can get them from 10A - 50A for $4 - $6.

[IDBoating]

I use a Tyco SPDT 5 pin (old Bosch pin #'s) w/bracket. You can a plug with pigtails, but I usually just make my own harness. You can get them from 10A - 50A for $4 - $6.

$4-6 with bracket, eh? That's pretty cheap. Good to know if I ever need a low voltage relay in a vibration environment.

Thanks!

[embo]

I bought the factory switches for my 08 and they were $75.00 without the mount for the 4.

They didn't come with an installation manual

LMAO!!!

Side note, WABoating - that POD (don't remember what that stands for but it is the entire dash assembly) is not just the dash as it was explained to me on earlier models. That ENTIRE dash is one unit and COSTS $$$$. Since it is a new model, they will have it in stock but when I was looking at a 2004 24v and was asking about getting the POD replaced, first they didn't have one in stock but might be able to locate one laying around somewhere. Meaning a dealer or service shop might have one but not on the books and if one were to be found it would be near $1500!

If your dash doesn't have a recessed plase for those switches, that mount shown by another post looks great just below the throttle lever.

Find out all you can about that POD before cutting into it if you have to do that. Lot easier to deal with the fiberglass under the throttle if there needs to be anyting custom done. If a mistake was made on the POD, that might be a very costly 4 switch panel you end up installing.

Side note 2: Those of us that have '06 or older Tige boats who have gauges that go bad won't be able to get the same gauge face plate as the factory Tige plate. According to the dealer near here they don't make them anymore. You can still get the gauges but not with the Tige emblem on them. May not even get the same color either. So if one gauge goes bad, it is a question if you can get another one to replace it that will match correctly. Probably can get one that matches in color but then agan maybe not. Not super expensive to replace then all but not something a person would really want to do if not needed.

[IDBoating]

If your dash doesn't have a recessed plase for those switches, that mount shown by another post looks great just below the throttle lever.

I haven't yet seen a photo of the "below the throttle" switch location.

[chpthril]

I haven't yet seen a photo of the "below the throttle" switch location.

That's the pic Iwndr posted on page 1.

IMO, that is the worst and last place I would locate the switches. They are too easy to bump with your knee! Trust me, I know................I had 750GPH of old stinky ballast water discharged on me at the 08 boat show when the potential customer's kid swung around in the seat and kit the switches, while I was standing next to the boat showing it.