Originally posted by chpthril
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Originally posted by Shamus View PostAny thoughts on when you may be able to confirm this CHP...I may be a 2010 Z1 owner here within a week or so...
On a serious note, with me not having a Tige dealer close, and i havent been down east close to our new one, I have to rely on me Tige brethren.
So if someone out there has a 2010/2011 with the Surf or Pro upgrade, let me know if you'd like to help out and take some pics and measurements.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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[QUOTE=chpthril;450491]As soon as you take the measurements for me
SMRT AZZ...I don't know...I am having some dilemas...if I can get into the RZR for a similar price I may have to give it a try. Going to go demo both of them this weekend (if work lets me). It will be one or the other...
sorry...didn't mean to JACK your threadLast edited by Shamus; 10-12-2010, 09:00 PM.
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Originally posted by hycosurf View PostI would like to reserve a port and starboard of the new order going through. How much is shipping?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Make sure you check out this thread, if you are interested in those sacs.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13746http://wake9.com/
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostOver the past year and a half, we have filled over 30 orders for our custom surf sac, but it's time to retire it and move forward with the next generation.
The original sac design was a universal sac that would fit in either side of the RZ2 and 22Ve boats and has performed very well. But like anything, there are always room for improvements. With the valuable feedback we have gotten on this sac over the past year, I have been tinkering around with an updated design. In doing this, it has become apparent that we will need to do a dedicated port and starboard sac......a universal will no longer work.
Due to the manufacturing process, going to two custom sacs to outfit a boat, adds to the production time for each order. Down side to this, is that it adds to the cost. So in order the get the best price possible, I will need to retire the original sac, so that brings me to this post!
i am going to place an order for one last batch, and like Disney says, it's going back in the vault, never to be seen again
SO, if anyone is on the fence, now is the time. Let me know if you want one!
To update the new plug'n-play surf sac upgrade for the 2010's with the Surf/Pro ballast option, I have completed some tweaking and just want to let Ragboy get a few more hours on these sacs before we go to production. I have also made the calculations for the 24ft Tiges.
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Originally posted by Nobody View PostWhat about the RZ4?? Will it be the same? I have two batteries at the bottom of each locker.
If you could get me some pics of each storage locker (or just one if you dont want to sac out both sides) and as much description as you can about how any plumbed-in aftermarket sacs are done. From there, we can kick around some ideas on how best to get you the weight needed to sink that beast.
For those with the 24Ve or Rz4 WITHOUT factory ballast, IMO, the ideal surf sac is the W712 Enzo. For those with the factory ballast, and those that want the best possible wake with hidden ballast, my first suggestion is to yank the factory hard tank(s), relocate the batteries and TAPS motor back against the transom, rebuild the rear bulkhead wall and they go with the Enzo or custom surf.
For those that want a less invasive approach, there are two other options I have. 1) lay in a W705 Seat Bottom sac in the storage in front of the battery box and let it stretch out under the seats. It's rated at 650# and should fill to about 600#. Option 2 is to use the same W705 on the floor, then add a W713 sac on top. Plumbed-in right, you've got a cascading system where the fill flow goes into the top of W713 and then flows out the drain into the W705. With the drain pump on the lower W705, water will flow from the upper W713 down to the W705 as the water is pumped out. Other then the plumbing, the only modification that needs to be done is to build a platform, at the same level as the battery box, for the W713 to set on. This setup would give you about 900# in addition to the factory 250# tank.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostYour boat is going to be a unique challenge. One, because it's in the 06-08 factory ballast era and two, you've got some additional plumbed-in sacs (if I remember right) and also some added batteries for that little Sparko-Matic wanna-be stereo system you got
If you could get me some pics of each storage locker (or just one if you dont want to sac out both sides) and as much description as you can about how any plumbed-in aftermarket sacs are done. From there, we can kick around some ideas on how best to get you the weight needed to sink that beast.
For those with the 24Ve or Rz4 WITHOUT factory ballast, IMO, the ideal surf sac is the W712 Enzo. For those with the factory ballast, and those that want the best possible wake with hidden ballast, my first suggestion is to yank the factory hard tank(s), relocate the batteries and TAPS motor back against the transom, rebuild the rear bulkhead wall and they go with the Enzo or custom surf.
For those that want a less invasive approach, there are two other options I have. 1) lay in a W705 Seat Bottom sac in the storage in front of the battery box and let it stretch out under the seats. It's rated at 650# and should fill to about 600#. Option 2 is to use the same W705 on the floor, then add a W713 sac on top. Plumbed-in right, you've got a cascading system where the fill flow goes into the top of W713 and then flows out the drain into the W705. With the drain pump on the lower W705, water will flow from the upper W713 down to the W705 as the water is pumped out. Other then the plumbing, the only modification that needs to be done is to build a platform, at the same level as the battery box, for the W713 to set on. This setup would give you about 900# in addition to the factory 250# tank.
The next question is why do you suggest getting rid of the hard plastic tanks????? What's wrong with them and what's a replacement?
I'm ok with a corner over the seat sack if that's the only one I have to fill manually. So what I'll need is a 3' X 3" right angle sack that can be used left angle (to the other side).
What's your suggestion?
As for wanne-be stereo system, the Italian Hertz amps are all failing because they are not conformal coated. We replaced one 2000 watt amp with three 700 watt amps for the three subs. Now I have to deal with the in-boat speaker amp. We also want to add for 80's for rear projection using a custom made rack or mini tower mounted on the top rails. Got an idea for that?
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In RED
Originally posted by Nobody View PostI took a peek this morning and observed for a few minutes. Port side is 4 batteries, starboard side is 2 batteries. I think I modify and cram 5 batteries in the port bottom transom locker and buy a custom sack to fill the rest of the space to the top. For the starboard, I'm going to move two batteries that are mid-ship port side to the rear starboard transom area. This will give me better weight distribution as well. Then have a custom sack made to fill up the rest of the space to the ceiling.
The next question is why do you suggest getting rid of the hard plastic tanks????? What's wrong with them and what's a replacement? There is no replacement. Pull the tank and toss it so the batteries that where forced out into the V-drive locker can be moved back against the transom as if the boat didnt have factory ballast. On most of the 06-08 boats with factory ballast, this is not a major operation, but your will be a bit more dificult due to the extra batteries. I really need pics, that will help me the most in brain storming ideas for you.
I'm ok with a corner over the seat sack if that's the only one I have to fill manually. So what I'll need is a 3' X 3" right angle sack that can be used left angle (to the other side).
What's your suggestion? Lets see what it takes to get as much hidden ballast as possible, then we can decide on what, if any, ballst needs to be in the seat.
As for wanne-be stereo system, the Italian Hertz amps are all failing because they are not conformal coated. We replaced one 2000 watt amp with three 700 watt amps for the three subs. Now I have to deal with the in-boat speaker amp. We also want to add for 80's for rear projection using a custom made rack or mini tower mounted on the top rails. Got an idea for that?Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by Nobody View PostOK....but not soon, will be gone for a couple weeks in Mexico.
I'll pick up this project when I come back.
Thanks.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostNo hurry, have a great trip, just dont jet-ski over to any old sunken churches.
Got back inside the boat Sunday. You mentioned moving the taps motor to the bulk head. Is this possible???? Is it easy?
The reason I'm asking is because I want to go 5 batteries on both sides, instead of 4 starboard /5 port. Then deck over, then custom saks to the roof. My logic is based on density...figuring the batteries offered more density per cubic foot than water. From there a sak under the port seat and a custom sak under the starboard seat.
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Originally posted by Nobody View PostMight come back in a body bag....going to Juarez.
Got back inside the boat Sunday. You mentioned moving the taps motor to the bulk head. Is this possible???? Is it easy?
The reason I'm asking is because I want to go 5 batteries on both sides, instead of 4 starboard /5 port. Then deck over, then custom saks to the roof. My logic is based on density...figuring the batteries offered more density per cubic foot than water. From there a sak under the port seat and a custom sak under the starboard seat.
Sounds like a plan! We can then possible go with either my custom cube or the W714 MC X-2 sac, which ever seems to fit the best. For under the seats, i would look at going with the W707 Seat Bottom sac V's a custom, but we will now further once we have some concrete specs.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Update!
The next gen design is completed and submitted for final quote. I hope to have this info back in a day or two.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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