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2009 RZ2 aftermarket ballast install

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    #16
    Originally posted by Guapo View Post
    Mike...with the new sac I'll have shortly. You mentioned that I'll need to re-route my supply line to the rear of the locker (as it's now in the front of the locker). In doing this, I will have to drill a hole in either the floor or the panel that separates the engine from the locker (which would seem easier). Does that sound right? Also, how do you drill those in the walls and floor with carpet on them...doesn't the hole saw "snag" on the carpet?
    David,

    We can take a look at our boat at the reunion and get some ideas.

    When the carpet "snags" on the hole saw, then Mike pulls out the sabre saw!

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      #17
      i drilled some holes in the back wall of my v drive locker. the carpet does not snag. There will be a few ragged ends, that I just melted away with a bbq lighter. i put my drain pumps behind the wall, you want drain pumps at the stern end of the sac or you will alot more water in them. Also I had modify my holes a few times because you need to center the hole based on how the sac fills when it is at the top of the compartment not just the halfway point at the bottom edge as the side walls taper as they go down.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Guapo View Post
        Mike...with the new sac I'll have shortly. You mentioned that I'll need to re-route my supply line to the rear of the locker (as it's now in the front of the locker). In doing this, I will have to drill a hole in either the floor or the panel that separates the engine from the locker (which would seem easier). Does that sound right? Also, how do you drill those in the walls and floor with carpet on them...doesn't the hole saw "snag" on the carpet?
        The basic concept is as fallows: pull the tank's vent/overflow hose from the tank and move it to a top fitting on the sac. Run a hose from the bottom fitting of the sac down to the tank's vent fitting, which is now vacant. As the tank fills, water will fill the sac through the tanks overflow. When the sac is full, it will purge out the vent thru-hull just as the tank did originally. As the tank empties, water will flow from the sac's lower fitting into the tank. Now, this is how the water needs to flow, but that dont mean the hoses can be relocated that easy

        Cutting out a circle with a razor knife before drilling helps. If the carpet is glued really good, the holesaw will just cut right through.

        Originally posted by ImaPigDog View Post
        David,

        We can take a look at our boat at the reunion and get some ideas.

        When the carpet "snags" on the hole saw, then Mike pulls out the sabre saw!
        Good thing that worked, the Saws-All was next, then the acetylene torch
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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          #19
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          The basic concept is as fallows: pull the tank's vent/overflow hose from the tank and move it to a top fitting on the sac. Run a hose from the bottom fitting of the sac down to the tank's vent fitting, which is now vacant. As the tank fills, water will fill the sac through the tanks overflow. When the sac is full, it will purge out the vent thru-hull just as the tank did originally. As the tank empties, water will flow from the sac's lower fitting into the tank. Now, this is how the water needs to flow, but that dont mean the hoses can be relocated that easy

          Cutting out a circle with a razor knife before drilling helps. If the carpet is glued really good, the holesaw will just cut right through.



          Good thing that worked, the Saws-All was next, then the acetylene torch
          I already have separate system plumbed in for the 450# sacs I added last year. See the pics below. I think all I need to do is move the fill/drain line (reversible pumps) to the rear of the locker from the front...which will require cutting a hole in the carpeted wall. Does that make sense or am I messed up?







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            #20
            Gotcha! I remember now that mention it that you had pumps put in. So yes, you current sacs fill will need to be moved around so it pops out the back wall of the storage so it connects with the custom sac's fill/drain. Your current sac's vent will probably lay right into place on the new sac.
            Attached Files
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by chpthril View Post
              Gotcha! I remember now that mention it that you had pumps put in. So yes, you current sacs fill will need to be moved around so it pops out the back wall of the storage so it connects with the custom sac's fill/drain. Your current sac's vent will probably lay right into place on the new sac.
              Make sure before you drill that hole you look on the back side for the reinforcing strip that is screwed to the floor. The bottom of your hole will have to be up 1" or so to clear it. When I had the 3/4 inch hose I used a 1-1/8 paddle bit. When I switched to 1" I used 1-1/4 hole saw.

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                #22
                Thanks...that's great info to have...I think the hoses are 1"...but I'll have to check.

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