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2001 21v ballast install questions

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    2001 21v ballast install questions

    Hello every one,

    My family just purchased a 2001 21v. It is in pretty good shape, it has a few minor things that will be fixed over the period of a few months (all cosmetic). But my main interest at this point is to install a ballast system. The boat came with 3 sacks with two pumps you throw over the rail. What I want to do is place some fixed plumbing for the sacs and and pumps. Budget is limited but I will get the plumbing supplies for free minus a few odds and ends. I have a few things in mind to make the system personalized to our needs and wants.
    I would really like to do the install under the deck so it does not take up all the locker space, is this recomended or no? my only concern is space and visual inspection of the system. Also if anyone really recomends a write up I would appreciate the input. I have seen many write ups but would really like to know which write up people like the best. I am a very mechanically inclined person and I am inovative and crafty as well so I can come up with my own system but there is no resaon to reinvent the pencil.
    here is a list of items I am thinking we will need to purchase for the install:

    6 tsunami pumps (1 fill and 1 drain for each sack)

    2 3/4" through hulls for drain/vent

    1 1.5"through hull for pick up and parts for a manifold.

    6 check valves (one for each pump)

    3 ball valves for feed to each sack

    carpeted plywood mounts for pumps

    3 rocker switches(1 per sack) fill-off-drain for bow, port, and starboard as well as fuses to go along with the switches.

    All necissary pvc pipe and fittings for plumbing
    2001 Tige 21V Fresh Air Exhaust, ballast, loud stereo, blue v drive, ACME 1235 prop Kneeboarding, Surfing, and having fun!

    #2
    • 6 tsunami pumps (1 fill and 1 drain for each sack)
    - What pumps, the T1200 or T800 Attwood Tsunami? What sac do you have for the bow? If it's the "U" shaped integrated bow sac, you may want to consider 2 drain pumps for it......one in each leg.

    • 2 3/4" through hulls for drain/vent
    - I'd go 3, one for each sac. It cuts down on hose. Also, you will probably need to go with 1" thru-hulls as well as 1" hose. The 1" will fit the T800 pretty easy and can be persuaded to fit the T1200, despite the 1-1/8" threads.

    • 1 1.5"through hull for pick up and parts for a manifold.
    - Thats a perfect size, but also look at going with 1-1/4. There is a huge price break in the bronze fittings between these 2 sizes. One thing missing from you list is a bronze master shut-off. The price diff alone in these was $30. What kinda thru-hull do you have in mind, i'm a "shroom" man myself.

    • 6 check valves (one for each pump)
    - You will definitely need 1 c/v per sac for the vent lines, but you may not need them for the fill lines. If the boat will allow for some creative hose routing, you will not experience any unwanted draining out the fill line. If you need them, it's easy to add in after words. You need go with the PVC flapper style swing-door c/v's, do not use plunger style.

    • 3 ball valves for feed to each sack
    - Only one master shut-off is needed for emergencies and having a ball-valve for each sac and a c/v is redundant. As noted above, either may not be needed.

    • carpeted plywood mounts for pumps
    - The aerator style live-well pumps are not self priming and therefore need to me mounted below the water line. So, for the fill pumps, the manifold will need to be down in the bilge. For the drain pumps, they need to be attached right at the sac.

    • 3 rocker switches(1 per sack) fill-off-drain for bow, port, and starboard as well as fuses to go along with the switches.
    - For the aerator pumps, you need a SPDT rocker switch. I prefer using a 2-light switch so you have that little red glow if a pump is accidentally left on. I have 3 labeled Carling switch covers left if you are interested.

    • All necissary pvc pipe and fittings for plumbing


    I've heard of a couple guys with the older boats stuffing a small sac under the walk-way, but doubt is can be done for the rears. They only take up space when filled, which is not alot unless you go with the 750's or a custom. There are a couple of good ballast installs over in the "How To" section, and even a couple that got placed in the the "General" section.
    Last edited by chpthril; 07-18-2009, 11:52 AM.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Do a search for dogberts post for his ballast. Good read
      15 Escalade ESV-Black
      08 RZ2-Blue

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        #4
        thank you for the information guys. very fast response times!!
        2001 Tige 21V Fresh Air Exhaust, ballast, loud stereo, blue v drive, ACME 1235 prop Kneeboarding, Surfing, and having fun!

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          #5
          Forgot to include, go with Fly High's quick connects for the sacs. It makes for a cleaner install and makes it easy to remove the sacs when cleaning the boat.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #6
            Chp, what kind of cost is he looking at minus the sacs? Been thinking about this project myself.

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              #7
              Originally posted by laserfish View Post
              Chp, what kind of cost is he looking at minus the sacs? Been thinking about this project myself.
              For a 3 sac system using aerator type pumps, ballpark it around $650.00. For reversibles, add another $400.00.
              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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