24Ve Major Fuel Issue

[Timmy!]

So an extra 8 gallons huh? I guess it might be possible considering the length and size of the tube that runs from the gas caps to the tank. If we knew those dimensions we could (not me, I suck at math) calculate how much capacity they have.

[evil0ne]

I have been boating all my life, and this is the fourth boat I have owned. So I am not a newbie. I have never had to fill a tank like this, and I don't like having to accept gas always coming down my $60+k boat. But I will work through it. There is much more to love about the boat. I am not unhappy, but it is a PITA. Someone at Tige should look at redesigning the tank or fillers, cuz the dealer, and many of you, have all communicated this is par for the course.

What boats? My buddies Sea Rays have done the exact same thing.

[ragboy]

So an extra 8 gallons huh? I guess it might be possible considering the length and size of the tube that runs from the gas caps to the tank. If we knew those dimensions we could (not me, I suck at math) calculate how much capacity they have.

Y, I can't think there are 8 gals in the tubes. Not sure where it is going, but I def put 55 gals in my boat when I did it gingerly.

[ragboy]

What boats? My buddies Sea Rays have done the exact same thing.

My main boats, for the last 12 years, have been 2 models of Four Winns. Now, I did get some gas that would come out on them, but learned to slow a bit as it got full. But the Tige, shot out a geyser.

Also, on my other boats, when they overflowed like this, they were full.

[kko]

you need to check your vent hose routing and make sure the check valve in it is perfectly straight up an down. if the check valve is on an angle it will close off and make it tough to put gas in. you also want to make sure that the vent hose does not have a sag or drup in it like a sink drain it will trap gas in it and not let it vent the vapor. these are the 2 things we have found to cause you filling problems.it sound like the vent is you problem as well because when you took the other cap off(creating a new vent) it worked fine. thats good for guys with dual fills but for guys with single fills and problems filling check the vent hose this is where you problem is.

[talltigeguy]

If I am right, that you just need to drop the other 15 gallons in, then I want to be called a scholar too, please.

Please give me some praise, here. I was first with the right answer. I am right so infrequently that I need to live it up when it happens.

[ragboy]

Please give me some praise, here. I was first with the right answer. I am right so infrequently that I need to live it up when it happens.

ok, you are a scholar. You don't get the gentleman because you inluded ZERO cool diagrams. ;-)

[R&T Babich]

kko - I agree exactly, just like in my first post on this topic. Has anyone read the BoutUS article or looked at the routing of the vent line? Our boat's vent line was definitely not routed correctly. I had the floor panel pulled today and looked at where the vent exits our 38 gal tank (according to the sticker on the tank) - it's at the front left corner. The fuel hose comes in the rear left corner. So the only way air could be trapped in the tank when filling is if the nose is lower than the rear. That would definitely cause burping out the fill tube. If the nose is higher, then the vent line is the problem. It should not have a trap (or low spot) in the routing to the vent thru hull. The vent line fuel/air seperator may be inadequate or not working properly.

Note: 2" hose x 4 feet long = .6 gallon of fuel

[anhaney]

If these are wired like a typical fuel level sending unit/gauge, then there is power on one side on the gauge and the ground comes through a variable resister. When the tank is empty, the sweeper on the S/U is at the ground side of the resister (low resistance to ground) causing the needle to move to the "E", when the tank is full, the sweeper is at the opposite end of the variable resister (hi resistance to ground) causing the needle to move to the "F".

An open in the signal (ground) side will cause the gauge to read "full" all the time. A short to ground on the signal side or no 12v on the gauge will cause an "empty" reading all the time.

OR it could be wired like this:

then there is power on one side on the gauge and the ground comes through a variable resister. When the tank is full, the sweeper on the S/U is at the ground side of the resister (low resistance to ground) causing the needle to move to the "F", when the tank is empty, the sweeper is at the opposite end of the variable resister (hi resistance to ground) causing the needle to move to the "E".

An open in the signal (ground) side or no 12v on the gauge will cause the gauge to read "empty" all the time. A short to ground on the signal side will cause a "full" reading all the time.

once you know how the system works, it easy to diagnose with a simple 12v test light.

1) check for 12v on gauge - no? fix and gauge should work
2) if 12v's found, unplug signal wire from gauge. Based on info above, an open may cause the needle to sweep, if not, with the testlight aligator grounded, touch the test light to the signal terminal on the back of gauge and the needle should sweep. If adding and removing ground does not cause the needle to sweep, then the gauge is bad. If the needle does sweep, then the sending unit is bad or no ground at tank.

Also if you pull your center floor out of the boat you will see to very small phillips screws on the sending unit. They are there to calibrate the full point and the empty point. the best way to do that is get a small jar and fill it with gas. Remove the sending unit. Get a second person to watch the guage. stick the unit into the jar and set the full point. Remove the unit to where about only 1/4" of the sensor tip is in the gas and adjust the empty point. You will be pretty accurate after that. If that don't work you need to replace the sensor. I have the insturctions on paper and can fax or email them to you in PDF. PM your email if you want them via email.

[Big Wave]

Hi guys
Great thread and vary usefull. I just had my new 24VE out for 8 days at Lake Mead and had the same filling problems every day. It would guizer(sp) after 15-20 gal and then every 5-10 gals untill full.
The kicker is after the first day we removed both caps and still had the same prob. Only solution I found was pumping at 1/2 speed and taking 2-3 second pauses in fueling every 15 seconds.
We love the boat and will deal with it if our exelant dealer in Vegas can't resolve it
Thanks for all the advice.

[chpthril]

Hi guys
Great thread and vary usefull. I just had my new 24VE out for 8 days at Lake Mead and had the same filling problems every day. It would guizer(sp) after 15-20 gal and then every 5-10 gals untill full.
The kicker is after the first day we removed both caps and still had the same prob. Only solution I found was pumping at 1/2 speed and taking 2-3 second pauses in fueling every 15 seconds.
We love the boat and will deal with it if our exelant dealer in Vegas can't resolve it
Thanks for all the advice.

BW, congrats and welcome to the Tige family Glad to hear you are enjoying the boat. Most of us have found that filling slow alleviates the problem.

My dealer has the floor out of one for a ballast install, I may take a close look at the fill and vent hose routing tomarrow.

[laserfish]

I know this sounds nuts, but I have an old Bronco that did the same thing, so I tried it on my boat and it worked. I hold the fuel nozzle upside down while filling. It makes the fuel flow in smoother or something, and does not spray out nearly as bad. I still slow it down when I think it is getting close to full though.

[chpthril]

I know this sounds nuts, but I have an old Bronco that did the same thing, so I tried it on my boat and it worked. I hold the fuel nozzle upside down while filling. It makes the fuel flow in smoother or something, and does not spray out nearly as bad. I still slow it down when I think it is getting close to full though.

Hay, what ever works

[chpthril]

Here is a pic of the fuel tank.

The fuel level sending unit is about mid way of the tank. I believe this is why the gauge drops so fast once the level reaches 1/2 tank.

The vent is located on the port side rear of the tank. If the vent hose has no kinks or sharp bends, this thing should vent OK, unless the the bow is higher then the stern due to the tow vehicle or slope of the parking lot.

With the bow up, it will fill the back of the tank first, trapping air in the front, and some fuel will go up the vent and eventually be forced out due to air....that is the "gas bath" that some of you are getting.

I think everyone will have the best results if you can fill up with the bow lower than the stern or Even some slope away from the pumps so that the side you are filling on is higher than the other.

[ragboy]

Here is a pic of the fuel tank.

The fuel level sending unit is about mid way of the tank. I believe this is why the gauge drops so fast once the level reaches 1/2 tank.

The vent is located on the port side rear of the tank. If the vent hose has no kinks or sharp bends, this thing should vent OK, unless the the bow is higher then the stern due to the tow vehicle or slope of the parking lot.

With the bow up, it will fill the back of the tank first, trapping air in the front, and some fuel will go up the vent and eventually be forced out due to air....that is the "gas bath" that some of you are getting.

I think everyone will have the best results if you can fill up with the bow lower than the stern or Even some slope away from the pumps so that the side you are filling on is higher than the other.

My boat is perfectly level on my trailer, and should be for the surge brakes to work optimally. Several people have also had it squirt out on them while on a gas dock while floating, def level. Maybe bow down will help, but not very practical. This is something that tige should def address.